Taichung
September 2025
If you can deal with the archaic ticketing system, rail is by far the best way to travel from Taipei to Taichung. For just US$30 round trip, the two hour ride is comfortable, clean, and efficient, and takes you from the center of one city to the center of the other.
That said, most travel guides will advise skipping Taichung on a tour of Taiwan. But we had three motivations to visit: The nostalgia factor from my 2010 trip, my friend Box, and proximity to Sun Moon Lake (set #6).
Our first day in Taichung began at Coffee Woosoon, an adorable cafe tucked away on a tiny street a few blocks from the train station. The dedicated and meticulous owner pulls all his own shots with a unique fanaticism for excellent espresso. It was like watching an artist at work. My winter melon latte was one of the best coffee drinks I’ve ever had.
The next stop was the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts, which like its sister in Taipei houses an excellent collection of homegrown art. The entire first floor was dedicated to showcasing the winners of a national art competition organized by various medium categories.
We then walked across the whole city back to the hotel, hitting various points of interest. First was the Animation Painted Lane, an alley of graffiti featuring cartoons. Next was Chun Shui Tang Si Wei, the teahouse where boba tea was (supposedly) invented. Then we popped into the quirky Sun Cake Museum before having refreshing Ceylon tea-flavored ice cream at the famous Miyahara confectionery shop.
For dinner, we met my friend Box and his wife at their local hotpot restaurant (note the man butchering offal at the table next to us), which happens to be halal to cater to workers from Malaysia and Indonesia. Box was one of the NTU students who was instrumental in organizing our 2010 tour. Though he and I had lost touch since a few months after I returned home, the conversation flowed like no time had passed. It was truly special to rekindle that friendship and to meet his lovely wife.
On our last day in Taichung, we walked through the Jianguo Morning Market which was just as lively as Taipei’s night markets. The sprawling building was full of vendors selling fruits, vegetables, clothing, meat, and seafood. There were no other tourists; this is where locals do their daily shopping. This was further evidenced by the scooters zipping through the building. We had to look both ways to cross the street while indoors! Breakfast consisted of the crunchiest fried chicken we’ve ever had, with whole sesame seeds in the batter.
To revisit the guides’ recommendations to skip Taichung, I wholeheartedly disagree. The city has the soul and grit of a true second city, much like Osaka, with its devotion to food, industry, and local pride. Between the comfort of good meals and the joy of old friendships rekindled, Taichung revealed Taiwan at its most real.
Recipes: Reggie’s Portra, Classic Cuban Negative
Taiwan Photosets:
Taipei Days
Taipei Museums
Taipei Nights
Jiufen/Shifen
Taichung
Sun Moon Lake
Food
Baseball
